Archive for the ‘Photography’ Category

Retro Digital Photography

Thursday, 23 September, 2010

I was discussing photography with friends at lunch today, specifically this article about attaching a 102-year-old movie camera lens to a Canon 5D Mark II digital SLR. The sample photos on there are very cool looking.

We talked about the trend for photographer to try to emulate the look and feel of old-time film photography. You can of course create some of the old-time photo effects on a digital image with Photoshop. Some people actually go out now and buy cheap and crappy film cameras and take photos with them, and scan them in to share online. That’s cool and good and all. But we pondered reproducing the experience of film photography with a digital camera.

Consider a Canon 5D Mark II. If you shoot in RAW mode (as I do with mine), each image file is about 20 megabytes. You find you need multi-gigabyte memory cards to hold a decent number of photos. But maybe you have an old 512 MB card lying around from an earlier camera. That will hold… 25 photos, give or take a couple depending on what you’re shooting and the file compression ratios. A common number of exposures on a roll of film was 24 (and you could usually squeeze a 25th shot in).

And so was born the idea. Take your fancy-shmancy digital camera and a memory card just big enough to hold roughly 24 photos. Go out shooting, without any other memory cards. Do not delete any shots you take until you get home. Post all the shots from your “roll of film” to your photo sharing site.

This puts you into the mindset of film photography. You only have 24 shots, and you better try to make each one count.

And then we went a step further. For a real challenge, find a 32 MB card (or appropriate size for your camera), which will hold only one photo (in RAW format). Go out shooting without any other memory cards. This time, you’re allowed to delete any photos you take. But you only get to come home with one shot. If you think you can improve on the shot on your card, you can erase it and take another photo. if you think you’ve got the best shot of the day, keep it until you go home.

If you try either of these ideas, please point me at the results.

I’m a Getty Images contributor!

Saturday, 11 September, 2010

About a year ago, Getty Images started a partnership with Flickr, which allowed any Flickr user to elect to place a Getty Images licensing request link on their photos. I did so. Recently someone expressed an interest in licensing one of my photos via this link, and so I’ve been invited to become a Getty Images contributor! So far, four of my photos have been selected for inclusion in the Getty Images Collection.

As an invited contributor I can now submit up to 25 new photos per month for consideration by the Getty editors. They’re very selective about which images they accept, but hopefully my contribution there will grow over time. :-)

Knowledge

Saturday, 7 August, 2010

and let thy feet millenniums hence be set in midst of knowledge

I’m inordinately pleased with this photo for some reason.

Photos of you

Thursday, 1 July, 2010

Here’s an idea. Determine a particular date when you were in a public place that is often photographed. Tourist spots are good examples.

Now use Flickr’s advanced search to find photos taken on that date, and tagged with something that narrows down the location appropriately.

See if you can find a photo taken by a complete stranger, with you in it. Let me know if you succeed!

Blue Mountains Day Trip

Monday, 14 June, 2010

Megalong Valley PanoramaWe went for a day driving trip up to the Blue Mountains yesterday. This is a World Heritage Area right on Sydney’s doorstep and contains some beautiful scenery.

There are just two roads out of Sydney to the west. We took the lesser travelled Bells Line of Road and turned off to the tiny village of Mount Wilson, where I’d never been before. It turned out to be tiny indeed, with just a few residential properties, a small church, and a Bush Fire Brigade building. No shops, no post office, nothing. The main reason for going there is to admire the beautiful gardens that many of the residents keep, and let open for public viewing. We dropped in at one, Windy Ridge, but being winter it wasn’t at its best. There were a few flowers out, but most of it was just various shades of green and brown. It was still interesting and would clearly be a wonder in spring.

We also stopped in at the Cathedral of Ferns for the short walk through luscious rainforest populated by enormous tree ferns, and then at Wynne’s Lookout for a view over part of the National Park.

From there we drove over to the Great Western Highway (the other route west from Sydney) and grabbed some pies for lunch at Mount Victoria, before heading out to Hargrave’s Lookout on the Shipley Plateau, south of Blackheath. The view from there is shown in the panorama at the top of this post. I’d not visited this spot before, but I’ll definitely be going back. It has possibly the best view of the Megalong Valley and Blue Mountains National Park regions that I’ve ever seen from any lookout spot.

On the way home, we popped in at Katoomba for some afternoon tea. I spotted a wine shop there and found some interesting regional NSW stuff. I bought 4 bottles: a late-picked Verdelho from Cowra, an ice wine from Orange, a bottle of spiced mead(!), and a bottle of hot chili wine – no grapes involved, it’s made entirely from chilis! The woman behind the counter saw me looking bemusedly at the bottle and offered me a taste. Wow… I had to buy a bottle after that. More details later when I give it a proper tasting.

Photographing a Wedding

Tuesday, 4 May, 2010

The newlyweds
Some time ago a friend asked me if I would do the official photography for his wedding. It would be a joint effort with another friend of ours. We agreed. The wedding was on Saturday.

I’ve taken a lot of photos at weddings, and done one other wedding as an “official” photographer (with the same friend who doubled with me on this recent one). Although I enjoy it, it’s hard work.

I’m best at taking photos of landscapes or architecture. Things that don’t move, in other words. I use the time that gives me to tweak things and try out different angles and exposures and compositions, and to generally take my time lining things up. You don’t get that luxury with people. If you don’t capture the moment, it’s gone. Even if you do capture it, you can get it wrong by under-exposing, over-exposing, or getting the focus wrong. And, on the other side of the coin, there are many moments you do end up capturing that have people blinking, or looking goofy, or are generally unflattering.

Taking portraits of people is not too bad in itself. If you have time to direct, compose, wait for them to look natural or laugh – rather than grinning stiffly into the camera – it works nicely. If you have time to look for interesting compositions and direct the subjects to stand here, move over there, look that way, etc.

At a wedding, you don’t have a lot of that time. People are rushing about, trying to stick to a schedule that inevitably slips. They’re nervous, or thinking about other things, rather than relaxed and ready to be directed and sit still for several minutes at a time. Much of the time you just have to get in there and fire away with your camera.

I’m sure you can get better at it. Plenty of people make a living out of shooting weddings. But you know, seeing some of those wonderful creative shots of happy couples or bridal parties in scenic surroundings and dynamically posed makes me realise just how much time and effort and thought must have gone into those shots. You can’t just take a bride and groom into a garden for half an hour and get a drop-dead gorgeous photo. You need to plan it, and you need to direct the subjects. You need to stop time for them and have the luxury of an hour or two where there’s no rush to be somewhere else or worries about what’s next on the schedule.

Sometimes I think the best wedding photography isn’t done on the wedding day at all. It’s just too hectic. It has to be staged as a photo shoot, without all that other stuff happening around it.

To really do a wedding justice in photographs, I wish I had more time. Oh, I’m pretty happy with some of the shots I got this time. There are just some where I wish I’d had a bit more time to adjust things to get the shot perfect. This is not to complain. The day is for the happy couple, after all, and forcing them to bow to the whims of a photographer is not conducive to stress minimisation.

Maybe I just need more practice.

Up at Dawn

Tuesday, 30 March, 2010

The Swimmer
On Sunday I got up at 5:20. The aim was to be out at North Narrabeen while it was still dark, so I could do some sunrise photography. This is the best time of year to do this, because the sun is rising later as winter approaches, but daylight saving hasn’t ended yet, so the sun is actually appearing later (by the clock) than in the middle of winter. And being the tail end of summer, it isn’t nearly as cold in the morning either.

What you want for a good sunrise is a bit of cloud in the sky, but a clear horizon, without that band of grey wall you sometimes get hovering right on the horizon. If there’s no cloud, the sky just goes bland, but some clouds catch the red glow of the dawn sun and provide some contrast in the sky. The problem is, because you have to get up and head out when it’s still dark, you have no idea what the sky is going to be like when the sun finally appears. So it’s always a gamble. So far I’ve been very lucky with my dawn photo sessions – I haven’t really had a bad one yet.

The other thing is that I live on an east coast, which means that yes, I have to get up at dawn for the sunrise. The sun sets beyond the suburbs and the mountains in the distance, which isn’t nearly as good as the sun setting into the ocean. If you’re on a west coast, you get good sunsets; if you’re on the east, you need to go for the sunrises.

And finally, taking photos on the coast, you need to consider the tide. Yes, something I do cares about the phase of the moon. (And I’m not a fisher or a surfer. Actually, I used to care about the phase of the moon when I did astronomy too.) It happened to be high tide at dawn on Sunday, which meant much of the rock platform I was taking photos of was submerged. There were about half a dozen other photographers there – photography is a dawn fraternity – and all of them were simply wading through the sea water to access positions on the edge of the rocks, where waves could wash over them and provide luscious photos. I still need to get some shoes I’m willing to inflict sea water on, so I stayed on the relatively dry area around the rock pool.

Then there’s the choice of lens. I like to experiment and try unconventional things. One of the tricks is a fisheye lens. It distorts the image wildly, and is often used in ways which accentuate the effect, by including lots of obvious lines that get bent. But if you put the horizon bang in the middle of the frame, it stays straight. And if there are few straight lines elsewhere, the image can look reasonably natural. There is some obvious distortion in this shot, but it’s confined to the corners and doesn’t scream at you.

And the other cool thing about being here at dawn is that swimmers get up at the same time and provide interesting foreground subjects, to set against the magic that’s happening in the sky.

It’s good to get up early.

Digital post

Thursday, 25 March, 2010

The Oncoming Storm
What goes into making a photo? The simplistic answer is that you just record the light that enters the camera.

The problem with that is that a camera responds to light in a very different way to how the human eye and the human brain respond to light. If you pump the same number of photons of a certain wavelength into a camera at a certain position, they will hit the same pixel on the sensor (or the same position on a piece of film, if you’re old school) and be recorded in the same way. Give or take some random noise which is mostly insignificant. But if you pump the same number of photons of a certain wavelength into an eyeball, the human brain will process that signal very differently, depending on what else is around it in the image, how well adapted the eye is to the present illumination level, the presence of strong light sources or colours elsewhere in the visual field, and so on.

This causes the common phenomenon of seeing something spectacular – a sunset is a good and common example – and taking dozens of photos of it because, well, it’s just so amazing! But then when you look at the photos later, they’re all kind of blah. They have a dark, almost black foreground, and a washed out sky and the colours aren’t nearly as vivid as you remember seeing. The camera isn’t lying – it just records what the light was actually doing. It’s your brain that that was lying at the time your eyes were seeing the sunset. The human visual system is wonderfully adaptive. It can make out details in extremely high contrast scenes that current cameras struggle, or fail, to deal with. That’s the first problem.

The second problem is that the physical objects we use to reproduce photos – prints or display screens – don’t have anywhere near the brightness contrast or the range of colours that humans can actually perceive. There are colours that you can see in real life that cannot be generated by a consumer-level display screen. The result of these two problems is that photos straight off a camera sensor often bear only a superficial relation to the contrasts and colours we saw when we took the photo.

This problem is addressed by post-processing. This is not a new thing associated with digital photos. The old masters of film photography knew this, and used darkroom techniques to produce prints of images that were based on what was recorded on the negative, but were modified to give a better representation of how their eye remembered the image in the field. Dodging and burning (which some of you may be familiar with in digital image processing applications) began as darkroom techniques to alter contrast levels locally in a photograph. Ansel Adams, who created some of the most memorable black and white film images in the history of photography, used these techniques extensively. His photos were so striking and memorable and lifelike because he manipulated the data on the negatives to produce a print that the eye would recognise as close to what it would see in reality, rather than within the limited range of photographic film.

And the same principle applies to digital photos. The JPEGs you get out of digital cameras are processed to adjust the contrast levels and colour saturation so that when you display the image it looks roughly how it looked in reality. This is done automatically for the most part, with most people blissfully unaware. It’s only if you examine the raw image data off the sensor that you notice how different it is to what the scene should look like. And if you are an advanced level digital photographer and manipulate raw images and process them yourself to produce nice-looking results, you know this, and that some judicious tweaking can produce much more pleasing photos.

The point of this is that digital post-processing is often seen as “cheating” somehow, making the photo into something it never was. It can be that, certainly. But frequently some post-processing is needed simply to make a photo as recorded more closely match what we saw with our eyes when we decided to take the shot.

Oncoming Storm: original
When I saw this photo (right) in my collection after a trip to the beach, my first thought was, “Bleah, how dull. Why did I even take that shot?” But I loaded it up into Photoshop and played around a bit. I’m not claiming the shot at the top of this post is a perfect representation of what I saw with my eyes (being displayed on a screen, it never can be), but it’s definitely a closer match to what my brain told me I was looking at when I decided to take the photo.

I’m sure some people will claim they prefer the “unprocessed” version, saying the processed one looks “too fake”. Fine. I think it better represents what I saw that day. It is perhaps a little more enhanced for dramatic effect, but that’s also part of what makes photography an art form, rather than just a mechanical process. I can make a decision on how to present the photo, knowing that no way that I can present it actually matches the experience of being there.

The point here is that digital post-processing of photos shouldn’t be looked down upon as “messing with reality”. The image as recorded in the camera is already “messed with”. What you can do is take that data and turn it into something you want to look at and that reminds you of what you saw – in your mind – when you took it. And isn’t that what photography is about?

Apertures

Thursday, 11 March, 2010

Someone asked me today why the aperture number on a camera lens gets bigger as the aperture size gets smaller. Some of you no doubt already know why. But for anyone who’s ever wondered the same thing (as I did for many years when I first started using an SLR camera back in the days of film), let me explain.

The aperture is the number you see written as f/2.8 or f/8 or f/22. It describes the size of the opening inside the lens through which the light passes. There’s an iris diaphragm which can open and close to let in different amounts of light. This is useful to control for two reasons:

  1. The wider the aperture, the more light you let in to expose your film or digital camera sensor. So in dim light, it’s often better to use a wider aperture. Conversely, in bright sunlight, you can use a narrower aperture to get the same exposure at the same shutter speed.
  2. The wider your aperture the narrower your depth of field. This is a measure of the range of distances from your camera within which objects will be in focus. If your depth of field is large, lots of stuff will tend to be in focus, while if it’s narrow, only objects a precise distance from the camera will be in focus and everything else will be blurry. This might sound bad, but in many cases you want a shallow depth of field, such as to make a flattering portrait of someone – it looks better if things in the background are blurry so as not to distract your eye from the subject of the photo. So a portrait photographer will tend to use a wide aperture. On the other hand, a large depth of field is good for landscape photography, where you want everything in focus, so a landscape photographer would tend to use a narrow aperture.

The interesting thing is that to a beginner in photography the numbers of the apertures might seem to be backwards. f/2.8 is a wide aperture, letting in a lot of light, while f/22 is a narrow one, letting in relatively little light. Why is this?

The answer lies in the mysterious “f/” that precedes the aperture number. Although people usually refer to the apertures as “eff two point eight” or “eff twenty-two”, the slash symbol is actually a division sign. The f is the symbol for the focal length of the lens. If you have a standard 50mm lens, the aperture f/2.8 is 50/2.8 = 17.9mm wide. And the aperture f/22 is 50/22 = 2.3mm wide. So you see f/2.8 is quite a bit wider than f/22.

The interesting thing is that the apertures are defined in terms of the focal length of the lens. If you have a 200mm telephoto lens, then f/2.8 is 200/2.8 = 71mm wide and f/22 is 200/22 = 9.1mm wide. So in a physical sense the “same” aperture numbers are actually physically bigger on a longer lens, and physically smaller on a shorter lens.

So you might expect f/2.8 on a 200mm lens to let in more light than f/2.8 on a 50mm lens. But this isn’t the case. The 200mm lens has a field of view 4 times smaller than the 50mm lens – in other words it magnifies things by 4 times compared to the 50mm lens. After all, this is why you use a telephoto lens, to make things look bigger and closer! But the field of view being 4 times smaller means that the lens is gathering 16 times less light (it’s 4 times smaller in the horizontal direction and 4 times smaller in the vertical direction, so it sees an area 16 times smaller). But then the aperture f/2.8 on the 200mm lens is 4 times bigger than the aperture f/2.8 on the 50mm lens, so it gathers 16 times as much light (again, 4 times bigger horizontally, multiplied by 4 times bigger vertically = 16 times the area). So the physically larger aperture exactly cancels the fact that the lens is only seeing a smaller area of the image. The result is that aperture f/2.8 on a given lens gathers exactly the same amount of light as aperture f/2.8 on any other lens! (Assuming an evenly lit subject.)

So that’s why lens apertures are specified in this way. Rather than say the aperture is 5mm, or 13mm, or whatever, it’s much more convenient for figuring your exposure to express the aperture as a fraction of the focal length of the lens. Which explains the odd-looking “f/” notation, and why the numbers get bigger as the aperture gets smaller.

Portrait of Audrey

Thursday, 25 February, 2010

Audrey Hepburn by Michael Ochs Archives, copyright Getty Images
This is a great photo. No, I didn’t take, I only wish I had.

Besides the fact that the subject is Audrey Hepburn, and therefore it would be difficult to take a bad photo, this shot in particular is awesome. I came across it because my wife buys a fancy picture calendar every year, and for 2010 she chose to get one with portraits of Audrey Hepburn. So for the month of February I’ve had this gorgeous photo looking at me from the kitchen wall. With a quick flip through, I determined that none of the other photos in the calendar are as good as this one.

I don’t consider myself a very good portrait photographer. I prefer subjects that don’t move around, like buildings and trees and stuff. If I do take shots of people, they’re mostly candids of strangers, simply engaged in whatever they would be doing anyway, as part of an overall scene. I know good portrait photography when I see it, and appreciate seeing it, but I find it difficult doing it myself.

Focus on the eyes, capture an expression, don’t have the subject stare into the camera. Knowing the rules is the easy part. A portrait is a moment in time when you have to capture the essence of a person in a single still image. I don’t know what Audrey is looking at in this shot, but she’s happy and natural and her eyes are clear and bright. There’s a bit of a tilt to the image to give it some informality. The perspective is fairly flat, indicating a mild telephoto lens was used to avoid exaggerating depth features (producing a bulging nose, for example) – although this is standard practice for portraiture and any photographer should know this. The subject fills the frame, leaving no doubt that this is a photo of a person, not what the person is doing or where the person is. The lighting is soft and flattering, with no heavy shadows on any side, but there are sparkles in her eyes. This is difficult to achieve without a professional studio lighting rig. The background is nicely blurred and non-distracting.

Yes, it’s a beautiful photo of a beautiful woman, but technically it’s an absolutely drool-worthy piece of photography. I hope to make a portrait half as good as this one day.

(Photo by Michael Ochs Archive, copyright by Getty Images. Low resolution version included here for editorial and critical review purposes only.)